Oud Satin Mood Eau De Parfum

I confess I find it extremely interesting khổng lồ watch what Francis Kurkdjian does with his brand. He has made it clear that he does not wish the scents released under the MFK label to be especially outré or unusual: he wants them lớn find a sizeable audience… which invariably means keeping to lớn the realms of what’s been done before. However, within this entirely understandable fiscal imperative, he also does as much as he can lớn try lớn reinterpret và revitalise old forms & ideas. The new Oud Satin Mood is a case in point. It presents Kurkdjian’s own rendition of oud – in other words, it contains a dry, peppery, faintly medicinal wood lưu ý – but it places it within a surprising setting: the lipstick floral.

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The ‘old school make-up’ accord – usually achieved through the use of violet-inflected ingredients – has been making something of a comeback lately. We recently saw it in Olivier Polge‘s Misia (Chanel) as well as Thierry Wasser‘s French Kiss (Guerlain) & of course, Frederic Malle re-invigorated it a few years ago when he released Ralf Schwieger‘s Lipstick Rose. In Kurkdjian’s hands, the concept grows somewhat darker and, appropriately enough for an oud scent, more Arabian. The rose is arguably more prominent, acting as a conspicuous link between the juvenile optimism of the violet and the rich sensuality of the woods. The requisite powdery facet seems much more grown up too, channeling the Marquise De Merteuil rather than Madame De Tourvel.
I’d argue that the contrast between the two facets isn’t sustained all the way through khổng lồ the end; the balance tips heavily towards the florals và the gorgeous vanilla as proceedings reach their conclusion. I’m also not clear as khổng lồ what’s especially ‘satin’ about the scent. However, as an attempt khổng lồ create a fascinating ‘pseudo-retro oud’, the perfume demands attention. It is far better than the Oud Mood trio Kurkdjian released in 2013 – which placed excessive emphasis on heavy-handed synthetics – and although it doesn’t make the earth move with quite the same force as his original Oud from 2012, it is a welcome addition lớn his portfolio.

hecap.org

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Author hecap.orgPosted on 22nd May 201528th June 2019Categories UncategorizedTags 2015, agarwood, Francis Kurkdjian, lipstick, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, oud, Oud Satin Mood, powder, rose, vanilla, violet

2 thoughts on “hecap.org Review: Oud Satin Mood from Maison Francis Kurkdjian (Francis Kurkdjian; 2015)”


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Anonymous
says:
A very enjoyable review, hecap.org!

While I know the original trio did not go down well too-well with you, I really enjoy Velvet mood, which lớn my nose has substantial amounts of real agarwood.

Have you tried Oud Imperial by Perris?


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I am a four-time Jasmine Award winning writer with a lifelong interest in the world of fine fragrance.

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